As with many things in life the best things turn out much better than you think they will. After reading about the Uncompahgre (Un-com-pah-gray) Plateau in the Colorado County Birding Guide, I was a little apprehensive about going up on the plateau by myself. Especially in a car. Reading the guide made it sound like unless you were well prepared, you might not come back down off the plateau. But far and away this turned out to be the best day of the trip.
In my case, and with apologies to Sam Peckinpah, Randolph Scott and Joel McCrea, I spent the day Driving the High Country.
But the guide wasn’t entirely incorrect. You can get by easily on a nice, dry day. But you had better come prepared because there are no stores or facilities. The drive is 50 miles of gravel road on government owned land. On the day I saw zero other cars. None. My rental was the only car on the plateau. Everyone else was in pickup trucks or SUV’s. And I bet I could count on three hands (less than 15) the total number of other vehicles I saw on the whole day. So the plateau was mine to bird.
The plateau is situated SW of Grand Junction. To get to the top you have to make several switchbacks up a gravel road going from 5000 to around 9500 feet. Learning from my stop at Loveland Pass I stopped 3 times and birded each stop for 10-15 minutes on the way up. Each time I was a little dizzy but it soon faded. I would walk slowly and bird and it seemed to work out.
At one of the stops I saw a Black-throated Gray Warbler along the side of the road. My only other previous encounter was a fleeting glance several years ago in Oregon. So this was treat.
I also had my only encounter with Mountain Chickadees on the way up. I could immediately tell they weren’t Black-capped from their raspier call. I also had a bird that I thought was a Western Tanager calling but never got a look. So it will stay off the personal list.
And just like that I was at the top of the plateau and I could tell I was somewhere different. It was like going from Indiana to Northern Michigan or Minnesota. The sun just didn’t seem right and the air felt different. The temperature was at least 20 degrees F less than the Grand Valley below (which still meant it was 80F in the afternoon). And it felt great.
The Divide Road runs the center of the plateau and goes 40 miles before you can take a side road and descend back to the valley. Here is a link to a short video on YouTube that a motorcycle rider made “A ride atop the Uncompahgre Plateau“. So the plan was to bird the road for the day and get home late afternoon. With the great habitats I only made it 13 miles. I then had to turn around and come back the way I came. But it was a great 13 miles of varied habitat. From Alpine Meadows to Ponderosa Pines to Aspen Forests and everything in between.
So I spent the day traveling a little bit at a time, parking along side the road, and birding an area for a while. All the while trying to make sure I stopped at the different habitats.
Once I stopped to view the only map posted along the road. While viewing the map my phone chimed I had a message. That startled me in the quiet of the plateau. I had checked earlier and didn’t have service in this remote spot. But I had it there and 4 bars to boot! I never did figure out how I had service out there. I guess you can never get truly away.
Probably the best part of the day was the last stop. I parked the car by an Aspen Grove and hard a distant “caw caw”. I knew I had heard it on the tapes I had listened too so I went into the grove to check it out. I saw a distant gray bird that kept moving. I figured it was the bird that was calling. As I got further and further into the glade I saw a flycatcher who actually stopped long enough for photos.
And the other bird kept calling. And then something rose up out of the tall grass and scarred the ##?? !! out of me. As I was walking quickly the other way it dawned on me that it was a fawn. And then I about stepped on its sibling. I should have got a photo but I figured Mom was around and I didn’t want to meet her. And of course then the Caw Caw bird came out in the open. A Clark’s Nutcracker! And the battery in the camera then went dead and the backup battery was in the car a few hundred feet away. Oh well.